Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
